How to Build: The TK

This knowledge base article will instruct you how to build your new TK numberpad. Thanks for supporting our first keyboard drop at Kazoos & Co. The build is fairly easy, as we will be putting everything back where it's already assembled.
The TK Numberpad, exploded view

Necessary Tools for Assembly:

  • Switches

  • Stabilizers, PCB Mount Necessary

  • Keycaps

  • M3 Drive Hex Driver or Alan Key

  • M2.5 Drive Hex Driver or Alan Key

  • M1.5 Drive Hex Driver or Alan Key

 

First Steps: Disassembly of The TK

  • Flip The TK on its back, removing the four M4 screws in the corner of The TK's bottom casing. These screws are M3 drive. Use the hex driver necessary, as not to strip or round the screw head.

  • Flip The TK back around to it's front and pull straight up on the top casing. The top case should release, along with the curved insert. This should leave the bottom case, with the badge and plate still together on the table. Put the top case assembly aside for now.

  • Remove the four screws holding the plate in place. These are M4 screws, so use your M3 drive hex driver.

  • Lift the plate out and set it aside.

Second Step: Prepare your PCB, Plate and Switches

  • Get the main PCB out of its packaging, and set it on top of the bag. The bag is anti-static, so it will help to protect the PCB from shock while building.

  • Orient the plate and PCB so that the XT column of keys are on the left side. The EP.KB and Kazoos & Co. logos should be right side up on the PCB.

  • Install your stabilizers into the PCB. There is only one orientation that these can be installed in, so be careful not to install them backwards. The stabilizer bar should be on the side with the large pass throughs for the stabilizers. Screw these stabilizers in, or snap them into the PCB (depending on the type that you use).

  • Line up the PCB with the TK's plate. Then gently support the hot-swap socket on the back with your finger while you insert your switches. Important: Make sure that the switch legs are straight before you insert the switch into the sockets of the PCB. Failure to do so may result in broken hot-swap sockets. You should be able to see the switch pins on the back, poking into the holes of the hot-swap sockets.

Supporting the back of the hot-swap socket.

An example of straight pins. If you need to bend them straight, use tweezers or pliers.

Inserting the switch into the PCB. Make sure the pins line up with the holes.

The switches legs should be visible through the back of the PCB.
  • Flip the assembly over. Grab your daughterboard JST cable, and connect it to the back of the PCB. BE CAREFUL: The cable can only be installed one way. The cable will be installed like in the picture below. Gently press on the tabs to make sure it is fully seated.


Third Step: Plate & PCB Reassembly

  • Take the Plate-PCB assembly and put it back into place in the bottom case, making sure that the daughterboard cable is coming up into the channel above it. It should be poking up like the image below.

  • Screw in the Plate-PCB assembly back into the bottom case. This requires the four M4 screws that were previously installed in place. Use an M3 drive hex driver, and screw them in until snug, but not tight. Then a half-turn more to secure it, do not overtighten as this could loosen the brass inserts from their place.

Fourth Step: Daughterboard Install and Final Re-Assembly

  • Set the bottom case, with the plate & PCB installed, aside for now. Take the top case of The TK and flip it over. Notice where the USB port goes, and the sled that sits towards the rear of the top case.

The daughterboard tunnel has been redesigned for easier printing, though all instructions are the same.
  • Unscrew the M2 screw holding the daughterboard sled in place. This screw is M1.5 drive, so use the corresponding hex drive for it.

  • Pull the daughterboard sled out of its tunnel. Carefully unscrew the M2 screws on top of the sled. These screws are also M1.5 drive.

  • Unpackage the USB-C daughterboard and screw it onto the sled, with the port facing towards the flat face of the sled (opposite of the screw that holds the sled in place). Screw in securely, but not too tight as not to damage the daughterboard's PCB.

  • Push the daughterboard sled into the top case, securing it in place with the M2 screw that we removed in Step 4, 5th bullet point.

  • Position the top case, upside down, in front of the bottom case, as pictured below.

  • Plug in the JST cable from the main PCB to the daughterboard connector. This is done the same way as connecting to the main PCB (Step 2, 5th bullet point).

  • Rotate the top case onto the bottom case, sliding it over the badge.

  • Install the M4 screws into the bottom case that hold the top case together to it. These are M3.5 drive, so use the M3.5 hex drive.


And we're all done! If you are wondering how to flash the firmware of the your new TK numberpad, here is an article teaching you how to do that.